I used the sharpie tick marks that I made earlier as a guide. Now I'm applying details made from 2mm & 3mm fun foam (Silly Winks). Craft foam can be heated with a hairdryer or heat gun and once it cools it will mostly hold it’s shape (though I’ve found the shape to be more flimsy). Resin won't actually stick directly to EVA foam. This will “close” the surface of the EVA Foam to prepare it for Sealing and Painting later on. The next step for them will be to flatten the texture by heating the surface with a heat gun. It's just another thing to clean up. You (generally) don't want to point your heat gun right at one spot without moving it, always keep it waving back and forth on the piece of foam you will be bending. Heating EVA foam gives off toxic fumes. Once the foam is heated up enough, you'll pull/stretch the foam down over the hitch ball. I used the same process for the slots cut into the face of the boot top just below the kneepads. Use an X-Acto knife to cut the piece out of the foam. I usually grind the new drum along the side of the disc on my bench grinder, but I'm sure you can use a grinding stone, concrete floor, etc. The boot & boot upper will not be glued together. There isn't really a set temperature, just when the foam becomes easily bendable. Your main tool here is the heat gun, they come in many different shapes and sizes but you really only need a small basic one. You don't want to heat it up too much. After a while the Catalyst starts to loose its "chemical energy" and it takes a very long time to cure ( if ever). Keep heating until … 3m 77 will adhere the vinyl to the EVA foam. After the texture has been removed, you can start to heat the EVA foam for shaping. Bill Doran of Punished Props did a video on his YouTube channel about the various super glues he uses for his props. I only use superglue for assembling my EVA armor. This shows the addition of the kneepads to the boot. Thanks for reading! You'll start the process by cutting out your paper template. This heat gun will be a useful addition to your tool kit. A smooth dense surface means your flex paints and glues will adhere with ease. (and could throw off the shape of the piece). Vinyl graphics were printed and glued to the foam with 3m 77 and it held up to a fair amount of abuse. They have been cut out using an X-acto knife. YES, it can pull dents out of foam, I do it all the time. After the texture has been removed, you can start to heat the EVA foam for shaping. In short, there are a lot of different ways to seal EVA Foam the two most well known and widely used methods are using either Plasti Dip or White Crafts glue (wood glue) to Seal EVA Foam. Ask Question. Once the foam is warm enough, you can use your knee, a hitchball clamped in a vise, or even just your hands to strech, form, & bend the foam. It still need keepers to hide the seam between the kneepad & straps, but it's just about ready for Plastidip. You can just barely see the seam below the curve. The elastic was able to stretch when I walked, and pulled the boot top back down when I wasn't walking. ... Is there a material that I could heat with a heat gun or in an oven for a little while that would render it flexible and stretchy enough to stretch over a die without losing its shape when it cooled? Robin discovered that an old 2-5/16" hitch ball clamped in the shop vise was a perfect tool for forming rounded sections of foam. Use an X-Acto knife to cut the piece out of the foam. If you heat up one spot too much, it'll blister. I did not cut the slots into the kneepad inset until after I had glued the piece down. I know some people use hot glue & other adhesives, but I've found that my coating/painting aheres better if hot glue is not involved. You do this by heating the face of the foam with the heatgun. Use a couple pieces of double sided tape to hold the template on the foam while you trace the pattern pice with a Sharpie. As long as the foam is hot, you can shape it into rounded or curved shapes. Steven Evans. Date published: 2020-10-23. A new sanding drum is too abrasive for working with the eva foam. This means your projects will have a professional final appearance. You'll be heating both the front & back sides of the foam, but really pay attention to the outer side for the stretch/form. ), a mason jar; or you can just shape it with your hands. After reading a good bit about using eva foam for various cosplay costumes, I went out and got a few sheets of the puzzle piece EVA from home depot and a heat gun. This is where having the flex shaft attachment is very handy. This gives you a much smoother surface when you get to painting the armor. You heat the foam up using the heat gun. Parts don't… The rotation of the drum is bad about grabbing the foam & spinning around the edge of the piece. Keep the heat gun about 2"-3" away from the foam, and keep the gun constantly moving. BPL Member. The White Crafts glue can simply be applied to the Foam in multiple Layers, if necessary, and it will Seal EVA Foam enough to be painted . If your Prop is not moving and does not bend (for example a solid armor) then you can seal your Foam with simple white crafts glue. Use a couple pieces of double sided tape to hold the template on the foam while you trace the pattern pice with a Sharpie. The damage from the runaway bit isn't generally very bad. That keeps you from seeing the back texture on the finished piece of armor. You don't want to heat it up too much. If you were to work from right to left, the drum will dig down into the foam & not float across the surface. Upper Right Photo: This is the shoulder paudron pieces after they've been cut out, heated to remove the texture, and the edges dremeled to give them a smooth rounded edge. If you release pressure from the trigger the heat gun will turn off immediately. LIGHTLY cut the lines with your X-Acto knife. Over a semi-soft cutting surface like a cutting mat or wood cutting block, use a sharp X-acto for craft knife to carefully follow the lines you've traced. These are the boot tops on my Marcus Fenix boots. Alone or combined with thermoplastics, it will address your needs.Foams that you will find in the cosplay world are usually foam you find as exercise mat or ground sh… The same method applies to heating a synthetic wig that can take heat. Heat Sealing is done by simply using a heat gun or Hairdryer to gently heat up the foam. Again, like the slots in the kneepads, I did plunge cuts with the dremel AFTER I applied the fun foam to the pauldrons. That usually seals most of the pores. A hair dryer should work fine, it just may take a bit longer to get the pieces heated. I created human sized DVD costumes a few years ago out of EVA foam. I prefer to move at a rate of approximately 10 centimeters per second. You'll start the process by cutting out your paper template. So if it is put on eva foam the foam tends to act as a insulator and absorb the heat hindering the reaction and never letting it cure. It's a piece of junk. You can use it to dry accessories for your jewelry, dresses and more. This will tighten & seal the foam texture. Note: These pieces are made from two layers of foam that are glued together. If you do, you'll end up with a burned/scorched spot. My big concern though is with the actual heat gun itself, in all the videos, people are bringing it near their hands and touching the foam as they heat it. So, if something were to happen to you whereby you lost control, you should still be safe. Here are the main panel lines cut into the boot top. When you heat up the foam pieces and fold it over you ankle as it cools, it will retain the shape that you hold it in. Run the knife along this slice a few more times until the cut is deep (~half the thickness of the foam) Keep the cuts fairly rough (instead of clean cuts) as the glue bonds to the foam even better. Lower Right Photo: These are the pauldrons after Plastidip. As you can see, the damage isn't bad, but makes a little more work to clean up. Dremel 85422 Silicon Carbide Grinding Stone, On to Plastidipping and Painting the Armor->. Use a heat gun Can a normal or strong hair dryer do the work or do i have to shell out for a heat gun if i want any result? I personally have the Wagner 200 watt heat gun, you can find this model nearly anywhere. Using your heat gun go from one end of the foam to the other. Trace the base pattern onto your foam with either a marker or a sharp object, like an awl or a seam ripper that makes a small groove in the foam. Thanks in advance. You'll leave the glue/seam edges sharp, but if it's an exposed edge, I like to flip the piece over & grind off the edge of the back texture. Make sure to move the foam around on the hitch ball or you'll get an uneven curve. This is the damage caused by the bit running away from you at the end of an edge. Before using a new sanding drum, I like to wear it out a bit first! Move the heat around constantly as the EVA foam does burn rather easily. I placed them on the MF boots because I hadn't completed Garron's boots yet. This will create a sharp edge later. That will create ripples as the costume flexes. ... heat directly to the surface, making sure I got both the treated and untreated areas. It's also used for heat forming the foam as well as leaving a tough skin on the surface. Dec 22, 2010 at 4:35 pm #1676888. And you can use just about anything for shaping a rounded or curved surface - a glass bottle, a bowl, a ball of some sort, a snow globe, a wig head, a duct tape dummy (this is the best for shaping armor! I could have made this from a single piece, but the model shows a seam there, and making it in two halves allowed me to replicate the shape of the curve accurately for the two kneepads. I don't think you could get away with just gluing the edges of the vinyl. *** Putting complex bends and curves in EVA Foam armor can be tricky, since the foam is very elastic and flexible. Now you'll need to remove the texture from the front of the piece. Jun 6, 2017 - Bending, Shaping and Strengthening Foam Armor (Cheap and Easy Method): *** If you enjoyed this instructable, please consider voting for me in the contests it is entered in! Can i warp EVA foam with a hair dryer? I couldn't say it any better, so instead of trying, here's his video. Here are the pieces for the Garron Paduk boots. Stop grinding before you get to the right edge of the piece. Be sure to wear a respirator and do this in a room with good ventilation.-----Using a heat gun on medium heat and low blower (if available), heat the flowers. Because of the rotation of the sanding drum, you'll want to grind from left to right. Just make sure to turn the piece of armor around & clean up the rest of the edge, working left to right. You'll need to change blades fairly often...the foam dulls the blades very quickly. Otherwise it would have been trial & error to match the curve of the two kneepads. It'll grind off material too quickly, and leaves a striped texture from the grit on the drum. They are ready for paint. I haven't ever come close to melting or burning the foam. This easy-to-use gun comes with a 70" cable. So using this method, I took the traced foam pieces, heated them, and folded them against my ankles. I attached an elastic strap to the pull loop of the boot & velcroed it up high inside the boot top. The next step for them will be to flatten the texture by heating the surface with a heat gun. You can lay the flex shaft along the foam so just the edge of the dremel stone cuts into the face of the foam. Cutting and Shaping the EVA Foam. Upper Left Photo: The pauldrons have been heat formed. When you're removing the texture (or when heating the foam for shaping), make sure to keep the tip of the heatgun about 2" from the foam. ... Now I have a hard deadline coming up and no way to shape my eva foam. This is the Doc Marten boot with the EVA shell applied. Meanwhile, mark up the chin piece with a line, insert the knife halfway into the foam at a 45-degree angle and cut along the line on both sides to make a groove. Our standard EVA foam comes in a density of 38kg/m3. Without adequate safety features, your heat gun experience could turn into a total disaster. Heat molding foam/neoprene. I've also found that you can rough cut foam (especially on EPP) and skip sanding it, just heat it with a heat gun and as the suface particles melt the foam suface smooths out nicely. Lower Right Photo: You'll need to remake/adjust the patterns for your fun foam pieces after you've heat formed the main EVA foam. Having helped a friend with shaping the armor and doing foam work myself, I have found the best thing to do after getting it heated up and shaped is to throw it in the freezer. One of the best things about EVA foam is how easily it is to mold with a heat gun. Thick or thin, foam will adapt to your different projects. The fundamentals of creating something out of those crafting materials primarily consist of heating the piece and holding it in place until it cools down to retain the shape that you want. It’s actually possible to burn your foam by keeping it focused on a single area for too long, so keep it moving! 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